Help please! None of this recommendations and problems are whats happening to me. I turn on the car, the sound comes out clean, but if I use the power windows, lock the safety belt, put on drive and change from gear it present an electrical popping sound, is super annoying.
Change the amp, wasn't the problem. Re-install the oem radio and it improve. My Acura TSX is making a high pitched whining sound when the radio is off.
The radio is stock and my left rear speaker has not been working for a while, but that is where the annoying noise is coming from. Also, the right rear speaker is no longer working either. What could the source of the noise be? Bad speaker? Got one havent seen, I have a pioneer double din with 2 sony amps for maybe 6 years now. Recently when using blue tooth to call people they complain about noise and it gets worse as I speed up or down, I dont hear this noise or any noise in the speakers etc.
Only the callers hear it, to the point they cant even talk to me, been getting worse. Blue tooth going out? If the sound gets muddy when you turn it up, you need the added power of an amplifier. You probably know the difference in sound between your TV speakers and a home theater system. An amplifier in your vehicle can make that kind of difference.
You'll hear a bigger, fuller sound, with more detail and greater impact, especially if you've installed better speakers in your vehicle. The first consideration is how many speakers you'll be powering and how much power each speaker will handle. Once you know that, you'll know how many amplifier channels you'll need and how much power you'll want. Yes, you can, as long as you have a basic knowledge of electronics and you're handy with tools. You'll have to run a power wire from your vehicle's battery back to your amp's location, and then a ground wire from the amp to your vehicle's chassis.
It's important to do the job correctly so you don't damage your vehicle. Our Tech Support people can help you if any issues come up. Check your speakers or sub to see how much power they can handle in terms of "watts RMS. Speakers are more forgiving, so you don't always have to max them out, although more power always sounds better. The easy answer is "one speaker per channel.
There are plenty of exceptions to this rule, so contact an Advisor to get the best advice for your situation. How much power and how many channels do your car speakers need?
This guide will help you choose the right amplifier for your car's sound system. Check out this overview of a typical installation to see the steps involved when you install an amplifier in your vehicle. Where should I mount it? What wiring do I need? What size fuse and power wire? These wiring diagrams illustrate how amplifiers connect to your audio system, which will make it easier to shop for the gear you need for the system of your dreams.
Car amplifier audio terms - like watts, volts, and efficiency - are explained. Confused about wiring your subs and picking the right amplifier? Crutchfield will get you on the fast track to big bass with this simple guide. You need to set your amplifiers gain correctly in order to enjoy your musics full range of dynamics hearing all the notes clearly, whether loud or soft.
Here's a method for setting amp gain fast and accurately using test tones. Here's a step-by-step guide to installing a car amplifier, including how to run the cables through your car and how to wire the amp.
There are many ways to connect subwoofers to an amplifier. Our wiring diagrams will help you find the best way to wire your subs and amps so you'll get the best performance out of your gear. For free personalized advice, call Our Advisors have listened to most of the speakers we carry, and can help you make the best choice for your system. Close contact box. Call See our hours Our hours Hours 7 days a week. Looking for International Support? Connect ID.
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Callback time. You can exit this chat now. Exit chat Send. Don't wait on hold. We'll call you back when it's your turn to talk with the next available. The type of noise you're hearing can help determine the cause. Read over this article for some hints and explanations of what can cause noise in your system. Use it as a checklist, eliminating possibilities until you find the culprit. You can also use this diagnostic flowchart as a guide to walk you through the troubleshooting process.
Noise in your receiver is often due to a poor ground wire connection or a poorly grounded antenna. Improper ground is one of the biggest causes for introducing noise into your audio system.
Is the ground wire located near a noise source like a heater, air conditioner, or computer? Is the ground wire actually connected to the vehicle's ground? Since the antenna lead can act as a ground thereby enabling a new receiver to operate without its ground wire properly connected , the antenna lead is frequently the source of noise problems.
If the noise is present only on the radio, then it's most likely coming through your antenna lead. Unplug the antenna. If the noise goes away, try an antenna noise suppressor like American International's AS This filter plugs in-line between your receiver and your antenna, breaking the ground path between them, thus preventing noise from entering your system. An antenna filter, installed between the vehicle's antenna and the receiver, can minimize noise entering your system from a poorly grounded antenna.
If the noise goes away, it's being radiated into your system due to the receiver's proximity to a noise producer like a heater motor or car computer. If the noise-causing accessory has a motor, a source noise filter can be installed on the accessory's power lead to minimize radiated noise. If the car computer or other motor-less accessory is causing the problem, move your receiver's wiring away from that accessory to minimize the radiated noise. Try using magnetic shielding foil also called Mu-metal to shield the back of the receiver or wrap the wire or component that's radiating the noise into your system.
Noise introduced through the power and ground wires connected to your receiver is called engine noise or alternator whine. If engine noise is your culprit, you may hear a whining or clicking sound. Its pitch will usually vary with engine speed. If this is the case, you can install an alternator noise filter on the power line between the battery and the alternator to minimize the problem. You can also install a noise filter on the receiver's power lead to cut down on signal pollution American International's S15A amp, watt or S25A amp, watt filters, for example.
Most often, however, alternator noise comes from a loose or intermittent ground connection. See the section below about noise in the electrical system. An alternator noise suppressor connects inline between the alternator and battery, and can reduce high-pitched whining noise that modulates according to engine RPMs.
An amplifier can introduce noise into your system through a bad ground or through a poor mounting. Rubber grommets or feet can help isolate the amplifier from the chassis of the vehicle, a potential source of noise. If all else fails, install a noise suppressor. The tricky part is figuring out which step or steps to take. Please read the rest of this section and try some of the simple tests. Is it near something that could be radiating noise, like a rear-mounted tuner or computer?
If so, unbolt it and move it away to see if the noise stops. Remove your patch cables. If you still hear noise, check to see if your amp is isolated from the vehicle's chassis.
Any contact between your amp's metal casing and your vehicle's body could cause noise problems. Is it securely attached to the vehicle's chassis with a good contact to clean metal?
Your ground wire should ideally be 18" long at most — a longer ground wire can cause noise problems. Improper grounding causes most system noise problems. If you have an external amplifier in your system, the first thing to do is to quiet any system noise, which sounds like a constant, low hiss. First, check for system noise with the engine off. Insert a CD and put your CD player on pause.
Listen to the system with the volume way down, then way up. Put on music. If you hear hiss or static in either instance, reduce the gain on your amplifier. Pass more signal from the receiver to the amp by leaving the receiver's volume higher before you set the amp's gain. Experiment until you eliminate the hiss or reduce it as much as possible.
A tiny bit of hiss is okay — you won't hear it while driving. Noise can be picked up by the RCA patch cables connecting your components.
To test this, detach the cables from your amp. Insert one side left or right of a spare patch cable into the amp's left and right input jacks see illustration below. Turn on your system and engine. If the noise is gone, reconnect the cables to the amp, and disconnect them from your receiver. If you hear the noise, your patch cables are definitely picking it up. Try re-routing them. Separate them from your power cable by at least 18 inches. You could try a better brand of patch cables.
The inexpensive RCA cables many people use to connect their components don't have the insulation or conductivity necessary to deflect noise in a metallic, highly conductive automobile. A cable's loop area is equal to the distance between its center conductor and outer shield times the length of one complete twist in a twisted pair configuration, or the entire length of the cable in a coaxial type.
Consider trading your old cable for one with a twisted pair design. You'll get a smaller loop area and less noise. As a last resort, a ground loop isolator like PAC's SNI-1 can be installed between the receiver's preamp outputs and your amp to minimize this problem. Noise can be created by cable of insufficient gauge, so you might try thicker cable.
If you cannot find the faulty ground in your multi-amp system, a ground loop isolator can help minimize the problem. Multiple amplifiers can also create ground loop problems, which can usually be solved by grounding each amplifier with its own separate wire.
If you are unable to locate the cause, a ground loop isolator like PAC's SNI-1 can be installed between the receiver's preamp outputs and the amplifiers to minimize this problem. Noise can also come in through the speaker wires.
To test them, turn the system off and disconnect the speaker wires from the amps. Now start the car. If the noise is still there, then it's being radiated into the speaker wires. Reposition them, or, as a last resort, shield them by wrapping them with Mu-metal foil.
If you've tried all of the noise-fighting tips above and you're still getting static, whine, or hiss, then the problem might be with your vehicle. You might simply need to fill your battery with fluid. If that doesn't help, have a mechanic check your alternator and battery. If your car is older and hasn't been tuned up recently, you may have ignition noise.
It's a ticking noise that varies in speed as you accelerate. You may need a tune-up involving resistor-type spark plugs, shielded carbon-core spark plug wires, distributor cap, and coil.
If the noise doesn't disappear, then your ignition system may not be grounded well enough and is broadcasting ticks to other items such as your air cleaner, hood, exhaust system, etc. Chances are, grounding one of the under-hood components will eliminate the noise. With your sound system on and the car running, try grounding each of these different components of the car.
It's possible that grounding one of your car's components will eliminate the noise. If so, make the ground permanent with a braided ground strap. Now turn on the radio and enjoy country music again. Did you make this project? Share it with us! I Made It! Lazy Susan 2. Tea-light Lantern by ruths in 3D Printing. Filthy Pazuzu 4 years ago. Reply Upvote. Turn the key to the Run position without starting the car.
The pump should run for 2 or 3 seconds. Then, when the computer senses that the engine isn't running, it will shut off the pump to prevent spilling fuel and draining the battery. Other almost-constants are heater fans, wipers and electric radiator-cooling fans. Here's our favorite low-tech tool for hunting down and killing wild noises--a cheap AM radio.
Tune it to an empty channel around kHz, crank up the volume in your headset, and use the radio to sniff out the noise. These cheapo radios use a ferrite-bar antenna that has good reception along its side, but poor reception along its length. The top of the radio will point at the source like a gunsight. Find some way of disconnecting the source of the RFI and check to see if the noise ceases.
This will be difficult in the case of the fuel pump or ignition, but you can pull the belt off the alternator. Don't disconnect the alternator electrically--the back EMF [voltage] may smoke the diodes. If you think it's a fuel injector, try disconnecting it from the harness. Virtually all cars today use resistor-type plug cables if they use spark plug wires at all.
If your vehicle is more than a few years old, degraded cables may be the source of the problem. Remove and replace the cables one at a time, clean them of grease and dirt with mild detergent, and check the connections to the ends.
Now get out your ohmmeter and measure the cables' resistance along their length--they should measure approximately 10, ohms per foot. Resistance in the megohms or single digits may well be the source of not only your RFI, but a nagging misfire. Replace any suspect wires with factory or high-quality aftermarket wires.
Check the plugs, coil and any distributor for evidence of carbon tracking or arcing as well. These noises are easy to associate with the source. Any RFI that sounds only when one window is going up or down will be easy to blame on the window motor.
Now that you've pinpointed the noise, what can be done about it? It depends on whether your RFI source is broadcasting or cabling the noise to your radio.
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